Whether you’re planning a trip to Amsterdam or would simply enjoy a glimpse of some of the popular sites, the following itinerary, tips, and answers to frequently asked questions may be helpful.
Amsterdam is a city of seemingly endless canals, iconic architecture, noteworthy museums, and a rich culinary scene. Lots of pretty tulips too!
My family’s recent trip to this bustling, walkable city with such deep history absolutely defied our expectations. It is truly an incredible destination. Many readers followed along and asked questions as I shared details of our adventures on Instagram and Facebook. Some were considering a future trip and requested itinerary specifics.
So, I put together a list of frequently asked questions and mapped out our itinerary, like I did when we traveled to Italy two summers ago. My hope is that it will be an entertaining glimpse into our travels, as well as a helpful resource for those who may wish to visit Amsterdam someday. Suffice it to say that everyone you see in the photos below would highly recommend a visit…and would gladly volunteer to be a travel buddy!
If you have additional questions or insights based on your own travels, please comment below. Also, if Italy is on your radar, this itinerary made us feel like true insiders, covering every base we had hoped to cover and more.
In case you’d like to jump to a particular area of interest, I’ve broken this post into the following sections:
- Brief background on Amsterdam
- Fun facts and helpful hints
- To use a travel agent or not?
- Our hotel
- Our itinerary
- Museums in Amsterdam
- Food to try
- A few final details
First, a brief introduction…
The Netherlands means “lowlands,” and fittingly, over 25% of the country’s land is below sea level. A significant portion of its land was reclaimed from the sea, and an estimated 65% of the country would be under water at high tide without the extensive system of canals, dikes, dunes, and pumps. Windmills were crucial in the past for pumping water out of these low areas, although modern electric and diesel pumps are now used.
Amsterdam’s 165 canals (stretching roughly 62 miles!) create the stunning backdrop against which this old city, which is the capital of the Netherlands, was built. I should also mention that most of these canals were hand-dug in the 1600s－a remarkable feat.
Narrow houses with intricate, gabled facades (many from the 17th century but some dating back to the 15th century) reach towards the sky, providing a unique visual counterbalance to the long, meandering canals.
Amsterdam has a long history of innovation, as well as tolerance and acceptance, particularly in religious matters. This attracted refugees from across Europe, who were instrumental to the city’s intellectual and economic growth. During World War II, the city was hit with profound hardship and loss of its of its large Jewish population. These are just a few elements of the city’s rich history that frame a visitor’s experience today.
Fun facts and helpful tips when traveling to Amsterdam:
- The population of Amsterdam is nearly one million but there are 1.2 million bicycles. Many people have more than one. For example, a parent may have a bike with seats for kid(s), another with baskets for groceries, and a third for commuting to work. Be vigilant and always look both ways for bikes when crossing the road!
- Finding a parking space for a bike can be tough, as can finding that bike later, as the piles of bikes often look a lot alike. To help in this quest, people frequently decorate their bikes, often with flowers, butterflies, and bright colors .
- If you, like me, have wondered why the country is referred to as both Holland and the Netherlands, this is why: There are 12 provinces in the Netherlands, and two are called Holland—North Holland and South Holland. Amsterdam, the most populous city, is located in North Holland, and provincial pride leads them to identify first as a Hollander. It’s a lot like New York City being called simply New York, it’s just that those names happen to be nearly the same.
- The houses, mostly all old and beautiful, tend to be skinny and tall. This is because, in the 16th century, Dutch authorities began levying taxes based on a property’s width. This provided an incentive to build up rather than across.
- Nicknamed the Venice of the North, Amsterdam has nearly twice as many canals as Venice.
- Recently, the city began installing low railings along the canals, as too many people have gone over the side (car and all) when parallel parking.
- Traditional Dutch clogs—the wooden shoes that look uncomfortable but are still worn by many farmers—are made of willow tree wood. This is a soft wood, which tends to wear out more quickly than harder woods, but the wear on the sole is desirable for traction. Otherwise, the clogs would be very slippery when wet.
- Public restrooms in the Netherlands were consistently spotless. Most are free, but it is not unusual to have to pay to use them (usually about a Euro) in big public places like the train station or a large mall or market.
- Not fun per se, but while Amsterdam is generally very clean, we did notice piles of trash on the sidewalks from time to time. Turns out, the seagulls are rather adept at getting into trash cans and scattering the debris.
- Many of the buildings tilt, (see photo above) and this crookedness adds to the city’s charming skyline. But why did this happen－and will they topple over? Simply put, the soil under Amsterdam’s houses is soft (think of all that water), so all the structures were built on poles that extend deep into the ground in order to provide support. Originally, the poles were wooden (they are now steel), and they would eventually wear out. Nowadays, old poles can also be replaced and the houses properly supported without knocking them down, but evidence of the former sinking and settling can still be seen.
- What is the difference between a dam and a dike? Dams run perpendicularly across the water to hold back some or all of the water on one side. Dikes, on the other hand, run parallel to the water (in this case, the canals) to prevent the water from spilling onto the land. Dikes can be an embankment, wall, or even a hill. Both are widely used in Amsterdam.
Did we use a travel agent?
After finding much value in using a travel agent for the first time when we traveled to Italy two years ago, I opted to use the same person again. I would do the same for our next trip. In the beginning stages of trip planning, we talked about the various things my family would enjoy:
- We’d love to see the important historical sites and museums.
- We’d enjoy walking around the city and soaking in the culture.
- A food tour or cooking class would be fun. (And P.S. we have a gluten and some seafood allergies.)
- A wine or beer tasting would be fun too, although one person in our group doesn’t drink alcohol and I wouldn’t want him to feel left out.
- We’d love to see some of the surrounding areas. What do you consider a must-see, and can this be accomplished without losing too much time in terms of additional travel hours?
- Most importantly, what shouldn’t we miss in Amsterdam? Sometimes, we don’t know enough to ask the “right questions,” and a good travel agent will make sure all the bases are covered, so to speak.
For a reasonable fee, she presented us with an itinerary that we could adjust (we barely changed a thing because we loved it!), and arranged the hotel stay, tours, pickups, drop-offs, etc. We were also provided with a contact in Amsterdam, so if there was a glitch or a question, I could check in with either of them. Our travel agent also provided helpful details such as the appropriate amount to tip a driver, a tour guide, and so on.
For those who may need a travel resource, Margo Bieret was our agent and she is fabulous. This is not a paid endorsement, by the way. Margo has simply been a delight to work with – she is responsive, knowledgeable, resourceful, and she made the planning process stress-free and easy. All elements of the trip ran smoothly.
Our hotel:
We stayed in the Hotel Estheréa, a family-owned hotel housed in a beautiful 17th century building, located in the heart of the city on the Singel Canal. The rooms (we had a double and a triple) were beautifully decorated, plenty spacious, and the beds were incredibly comfortable. A fresh, abundant, absolutely scrumptious daily breakfast was included with our room fee. There was also a very special coffee machine in the lobby, perfect for a latte, cafe Americano, or espresso (decaf or regular!) any time of day, as well as a variety of cookies and candies, all complementary. My husband travels a lot for work, so our family tends to stay in the same hotel chain everywhere we go (the points!). Our Amsterdam stay felt truly special but the prices were comparatively very reasonable.
Included in our overall package was a pickup from the train station (we arrived to Amsterdam via train after a short stay in Paris) and drop-off at the airport on the day of our return to the States. For those who may have questions about Paris and how the trips worked together, I am happy to elaborate.
Our Amsterdam itinerary:
Day one: Guided walking tour. This was the ideal way to get a lay of the land and begin to learn about the city’s rich history and architecture. The tour included Dam Square, the historical heart of Amsterdam, which is surrounded by notable landmarks such as the Royal Palace. We learned about the history of the Red Light district and many other notable landmarks, but my favorite part was the constant stream of interesting facts and trivia provided by our tour guide, Erika. She was fabulous. We also took a quick ferry ride across the harbor to the “new island,” which was built near the turn of the century to provide more housing. The cutting edge architecture there is in stark contrast to the centuries old houses along the canals, and we ate lunch at fun spot overlooking the water.
When the tour was over, we had a free afternoon to further explore the canals around our hotel and do a little window shopping. We ended our day with dinner at Cafe de Klepel, which came highly recommended to us by a friend whose family lives in the Netherlands. If planning a trip, I absolutely recommend making a reservation!
Day two: Food tour and history of the Jordaan section of the city. We had another outstanding tour guide, for this adventure, which everyone considered a highlight. We sampled a wide range of Dutch cuisine while learning more about the history of Amsterdam as we walked through the charming, 17th-century Jordaan district and the renowned canal belt.
The tour began with a slice of homemade Dutch apple pie in one of Amsterdam’s renowned “brown” pubs, which are traditional Dutch pubs characterized by their cozy, dark-wood interiors. They are known for being social gathering spots that showcase local culinary favorites. One may logically think pie would be served at the final stop, for dessert. We learned, however, that apple pie is an anytime food in the Netherlands, not just dessert fare. Happily, our tour guide arranged for a delicious gluten-free alternative for the two people who needed it. The tour went on to include a cheese tasting in a private room at a local cheese shop that supplies Michelin-starred restaurants, a tasting of Dutch wines, meats, as well as the renowned bitterballs and brined herring.
The tour was set up by Amsterdam Food Tours via our travel agent, and our tour guide, Caroline, was loads of fun and as knowledgeable about the history and architecture the city as she was the food. This was truly an opportunity to feel immersed in the culture, and I would recommend the tour heartily.
An important note is that all our guides enthusiastically served as resources for our stay in Amsterdam beyond our time with them, offering personalized recommendations on what to see and do in the city, restaurants and markets to visit, etc.
Tour of Anne Frank House. After the food tour, we walked on to the Anne Frank House, which is the actual building in the heart of Amsterdam where Anne Frank and her family hid from the Nazis for two years during World War II. It is a now museum dedicated to the life and writings of Anne Frank, those who hid with her, and the people who helped them. Visitors can tour the property and even climb the staircase behind the bookshelf that led to the Secret Annex. The experience is somber, but we felt like the house was a must-see while in Amsterdam. Tickets should be purchased online, at least seven weeks in advance, as they tend to sell out. Our travel agent secured these for us as a part of her trip planning.
Day three: Day trip to Kinderdijk and Rotterdam. (“dijk” is pronounced as dike, by the way) Located just over an hour outside of Amsterdam, our first destination was Kinderdijk, an esteemed UNESCO World Heritage Site celebrated for its iconic windmills. Here, we saw 19 meticulously preserved windmills, originating from the 18th century. The windmills were ingeniously constructed to manage the waters of the polder, the land located below sea level, thereby safeguarding the region from flooding. The windmills serve as a remarkable testament to the Dutch expertise in water management. We were able to explore inside two of the windmills, where families once lived, as each windmill needed a full-time caretaker for the required daily maintenance.
I thought of this area as a neighborhood; the houses just happened to be windmills! The neighborhood was sustainable, complete with farm animals, gardens, workshops, and more. All of this was still visible when visiting, making this a fabulous adventure for kids and adults alike.
We opted to walk among the windmills, but a boat voyage along the canals is available and provides a different perspective of the breathtaking vistas of the windmills set against the tranquil water landscape.
From Kinderdijk, we drove approximately 20 minutes to the city of Rotterdam, which is Europe’s largest seaport and considered the capital of Dutch architecture. We first explored the spectacular Markthal, Rotterdam’s vast indoor market, which features local products such as cheeses and stroopwafels, along with an impressive variety of international food stalls, restaurants, and shops. We enjoyed lunch at the market before touring the iconic Cube Houses, which were built in the late 1970s as part of the revitalization plan for the area known as Oude Haven (Old Port). Rotterdam was heavily bombed during WWII, so there is far more new architecture there as compared to Amsterdam. The Cube Houses represent what is often described as the city’s audacity and creativity in reimagining the look of urban spaces and challenging traditional building design conventions.
When we returned to Amsterdam, our driver dropped us off at Ron Gastrobar Indonesia, an Indonesian restaurant recommended to us by Caroline, who led our food tour the day before. I’ve included details in the “What to Eat” section, as we all gave this spot high marks for the food, setting, and overall experience.
Day four: First stop, local markets. After partaking in yet another outstanding breakfast buffet at our hotel, we set off on a casual stroll to Noordermarkt and Lindenmarkt, two weekly street markets recommended to us by tour guide Caroline, who we bumped into while there. (The chance meeting made us feel a bit like locals!) The extensive markets are beside one another in the Jordaan section of Amsterdam, and are a combination of farmers market and flea market, where you can find everything from local cheeses, meats, fish, and baked goods to ready-made food, pottery, clothing, jewelry, and handmade toys for children. Open Saturday mornings into early afternoon. As of this writing, Noordermarkt is also open on Mondays from 9:00a.m. to 1:00p.m.
Heineken Experience: From the markets, we walked back to the heart of Amsterdam for a tour of the iconic beer company’s oldest brewery. In 1988, the daily operations moved to other Dutch cities, and this historical building now serves as a venue where visitors can learn all about the company’s heritage, brewing process, their sometimes crazy innovations, and the story behind the red star. The tour we chose included a guide and a beer and cheese tasting in one of the “concealed” bars. (Zero alcohol beer, wine, sparkling water, and soda were available for those who didn’t consume alcohol or gluten.)
Fun fact: Heineken uses just four ingredients in their beer: water, hops, barley, and yeast.
Boat tour of the canals: Late that afternoon, our guide, Erika, met us at our hotel for the short walk to a neighboring canal, where we boarded a saloon boat for a relaxing and scenic tour of the waterways. Saloon boats date back to the Dutch Golden Age in the 17th century and were originally used by merchants to facilitate trade. We were peppered with more interesting facts about the city’s architecture and history－there was always more to learn－and the ride was a great way to take in the city from a different vantage point. Drinks and traditional Dutch appetizers (delicious!) were included.
We ended our day with an impromptu dinner at Christiaan Smit, a cozy spot with an open kitchen, friendly staff, and phenomenal corvina (a white fish similar to red snapper and grouper) among other deliciousness. Funny thing is that, as we first glanced at the menu on the window, a woman seated at one of the outdoor tables said, “Go in. You will not regret it.” She mentioned that she works at the restaurant and loves it so much she goes on her days off. We were sold, and she was right!
Museums in Amsterdam:
There a many outstanding museums in Amsterdam, so I’m listing the most popular ones here. We went to all but one of these. Rather than scheduling the art museums in advance, we decided to fit them in around our other activities, as we had planned for an occasional free morning or afternoon.
- Van Gogh Museum: This museum is very popular, and for good reason. It houses the largest collection of Van Gogh works and does an excellent job of following his career from beginning until end. We used the headsets, which allow the user to choose between highlights or a more in depth analysis. We all listened to the highlights and agreed we got more out of the visit than we would have otherwise. It is recommended to purchase tickets several weeks in advance, as they often sell out. We did not do this but managed to secure tickets while in Amsterdam but still several days in advance.
- Rijksmuseum: This is the country’s largest museum and the place to see masterpieces by Dutch Masters like Rembrandt, Vermeer, and Van Gogh. With its stunning architecture, this building houses a comprehensive overview of Dutch culture, is the place to see celebrated works like Rembrandt’s “The Night Watch,” and is considered one of the world’s finest art institutions. As with the Van Gogh Museum, it is recommended to buy Rijksmuseum tickets in advance, especially during peak season or on weekends.
- The Moco Museum: Located in a historic townhouse, the Moco houses a unique collection of modern and contemporary art by iconic artists like Banksy, Keith Haring, Jean-Michel Basquiat, and Andy Warhol. The museum is known for showcasing art that challenges social norms and sparks imagination, with a layout that is easy to navigate. This is a great pick for those who like to move through a museum on the quicker side and/or those who appreciate modern art. We loved it. We were able to purchase tickets at the door but did go closer to opening time, when the small museum tends to be less crowded.
- Heineken Experience: Decidedly a different museum experience (no Dutch Masters here!), I included additional details in our itinerary, above. If interested, click on the “Discover Our Tours” tab on their website to read about the various tour options.
- Anne Frank Museum: I’ve also included details for this one in the itinerary section but am including it here for quick reference. Additionally, we were told that the Anne Frank House operates on strict time slots for entry due to the high volume of visitors, so punctuality is key to ensure entry. Also remember to purchase tickets well ahead of your visit to guarantee access.
Helpful tips:
- Watch out for bicycles! As mentioned, there are A LOT of them in The Netherlands, (and they zip by!) so you have to look both ways in the car lanes as well as the bike lanes. Electric scooters are increasingly more common, and they can sneak up on you as they don’t make any noise.
- To get a well rounded view of a place, soak in the historical sites and museums of course, but also take advantage of walking tours, food tours, and day or half-day trips to nearby towns, as time allows. Walk through the gardens and parks and inquire at your hotel about smaller, niche sites, markets, festivals, and seasonal happenings that you may luck into but may not make a broader Google search.
- Tour guides can be your best friend. Well, maybe not literally, but they do provide an elevated level of knowledge about wherever you are. They also provide deeper insight into the culture and often share stories, anecdotes, and interesting details you’d likely not hear otherwise. We’ve had so many good guides. I’ve consistently marveled at their depth of knowledge, passion for sharing it, and affable nature. Many times, we’ve actually felt like we did make a new friend!
- An independent tour guide can take you through most museums, although many museums have their own knowledgeable guides, which are helpful in showing you the highlights and sharing stories and details that make the art come to life. If some in your group think museums are boring, this experience may change their mind. Check ahead or as soon as you arrive for tour times. Short of a tour, consider using one of the museum’s headsets, which offer another way to concisely glean an exhibit’s most compelling information and often provide options for just the highlights or a deeper dive.
- Adaptors are helpful because American plugs (for your chargers, etc.) don’t work in Europe. That said, many hotels will provide you with one or two adaptors if needed.
- Before your trip, drop a pin in Google maps for any restaurants, sites, etc., you’d like to visit to make navigating quicker and easier once you arrive. Not sure how to do this? Ask your kids or grandchildren!
- Put socks for the airplane in your carry-on!
- While on the carry-on subject, think about also including a toothbrush and anything else you deem essential for the first day or two, as we have twice been luggage-less for a day or two.
Food to try:
- Herring: I came into our trip with a distaste for pickled herring but was pleasantly surprised by brined herring, which is quite popular in the Netherlands. If you are a sushi fan, you will love it.
- Bitterballs, also known as bitterballen, a common appetizer or bar snack that are unique to the Netherlands. They are essentially fritters filled with a beefy gravy. Everyone loved them. (See photos further up the page.)
- Dutch wine. It’s wonderful, and because only one percent of Dutch wine is exported, you likely haven’t tried it. Even so, it’s a small market, so many Dutch restaurants don’t even carry it. As a part of our food tour, we did a wine tasting at Design and Wijn, a small operation run by a delightful couple, where bottles are also sold.
- Stroopwafels are round cookies made from dough that is pressed in a waffle iron, split into two very thin layers, and held together by a molasses/cinnamon/caramel-like filling. They are delicious freshly made and the aroma is intoxicating. Stroopwafels can also be “reheated” by placing them on top of a mug of hot tea or coffee for a minute or two.
- International cuisine: So many ethnicities are well represented in the Dutch food scene, and we were told by locals and guides that it’s all good (“except the American and Mexican food,” one added). Indonesian cuisine was mentioned several times. Based on our guide Caroline’s recommendation, we went to Ron Gastrobar Indonesia. The food and setting along the water were fabulous. Caroline said to order the “rice table,” which allows diners to sample a wide range of dishes. It did not disappoint. (Note: This is the one restaurant we did not walk to; it was about a 15 minute Uber ride from the city center.)
- What about food allergies? My family has several allergies to work around, and we found the restaurants and hotels in the Netherlands to be very accommodating. English is widely spoken, and we didn’t experience confusion when trying to gauge when something was safe for someone to eat or not. Excellent alternatives and adaptations were consistently available, from incredible gluten-free bread to a chef who removed shellfish from the most scrumptious flat fish entree. Warm gluten-free pan de chocolat and croissants were even included in the breakfast buffets.
- Abundant hotel breakfasts (think breads, cheeses, meats, salmon, eggs, salads, fresh fruit and juices, yogurt, granola, nuts, pastries, and great coffee) are frequently included with your stay and offer a delicious way to fill up before you set off for the day. I looked forward to breakfast every morning!
A few more things…
- Best time to visit Amsterdam for tulip season: The tulips are typically in bloom from late March to early May, but if this is something you’d like to see, we were told the best time to visit is mid-April. The flowers should be in full bloom and the tulip fields will be the most vibrant and colorful.
- Park space, running, picnics, and more: Lots of walking provided all the exercise my husband and I needed, but our boys regularly went for a morning run around the Vondelpark loop. The park is the largest in Amsterdam, and the open space offers a great destination for runs and walks and other leisurely activities. The most popular and well-known route is a car-free tarmac path that is roughly two miles long. There are six play areas for kids, skates are available for rent, and open areas are lovely for a picnic or people watching on a sunny day.
- Giethoorn: I asked our guides what their top recommendation would be if we had one more day in Amsterdam. A day trip to Giethoorn, a picturesque Dutch village with almost no roads (the historic center of Giethoorn is fully car-free), was top of the list. The village relies on a system of canals for transportation by boat, foot, and bike and features charming, thatched-roof farmhouses connected by small wooden bridges. Visitors can walk or cycle the paths, browse the shops, visit the Geithoorn museum, and rent electric “whisper boats” to navigate the waterways.
If you have questions or suggestions based on your own travel, please comment below. Also, if you could choose anywhere in the world to visit, where would that be?
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