Planning a trip to Japan or just curious about its culture? Discover the food, fun facts, and itinerary from our family’s recent journey.
Japan had been on our family’s wish list for years…and it somehow managed to exceed our expectations. Between the immaculate cities, deeply rooted traditions, legendary food culture, efficient transportation, and the sheer kindness and respect woven into everyday life, Japan was incredible.
We spent time in Tokyo, Kyoto, and the quieter hot spring town of Yamanaka Onsen, with a day trip to Kanazawa. Our itinerary provided a mix of modern city energy, ancient temples and shrines, peaceful gardens, unforgettable meals, and just enough flex time to wander and let it all sink in.
One thing became clear quickly: Japanese culture feels extraordinarily thoughtful. From beautifully packaged convenience store snacks (yes, 7-Elevens in Japan are a step or three above what we have here!) to spotless public transportation and centuries-old tea rituals, there’s an intentionality to even the smallest details. Below is our day-by-day itinerary, along with a few observations, food highlights, and cultural notes that made the trip especially memorable.
What’s Included in This Post:
- Fun Facts About Japan: Cultural Details and Everyday Life
- Food Details: Customs, Etiquette, and Tips
- Jet Lag and Time Differences: An often asked question
- Our Detailed Itinerary: A Day-by-Day Breakdown
- Did We Miss Anything?
- Final Thoughts & Takeaways
A Quick Note: In the bulleted lists that precede our travel itinerary, I’ve called out various customs and travel tips, but I’ve also sprinkled some interesting cultural details within the itinerary itself. My hope is that you find value in what follows—whether you are actively planning or dreaming about a future trip to Japan, or you would simply enjoy an up-close glimpse into the culture.
For those who may be planning a trip: Suffice it to say that, going into this process, I had no idea what we should see or how to map out our time. After my initial research, which was incredibly helpful (and I’m happy to share my strategy with anyone who may be interested!), I worked with my friend and travel agent Margo Bieret.
Margo also helped me plan our trips to Italy and Amsterdam (itineraries and travel details linked); her fee is reasonable, and we have consistently felt that the benefits of using her were worth every penny.
Fun Facts About Japan
Before getting into our itinerary, it’s worth talking about how Japan operates and some of the many cultural differences that make this country unique. Japan is truly a country where you feel like you’re stepping 50 years into the future while remaining deeply rooted in ancient tradition.
Cultural Details and Everyday Life
- No Public Trash Cans: There are virtually no public trash cans on the streets of Tokyo or Kyoto. Yet, the cities are absolutely pristine. Culturally, it is the norm for people carry their trash home with them. If you buy a snack, you often eat it on the spot and hand the wrapper back to the vendor. Our guides also mentioned that it is frowned upon to eat while walking along the street.
- The Toilets Will Impress You (Yes, Really!!): Going to the restroom in Japan is an experience. Public and hotel toilets feature heated seats, built-in bidets, adjustable water pressure, and even ambient white noise buttons (like the sound of a waterfall or birds chirping) for privacy. I’ve also never seen such consistently spotless public bathrooms—even on the trains!
- Keep Left: Whether driving in a car or just walking up a flight of stairs in a public place, traffic always keeps to the left.
- Taking Off Your Shoes: This ritual isn’t just for homes; you’ll do it at traditional restaurants, temples, and smaller hotels. In some cases, you’ll trade your outdoor shoes for indoor slippers, signaling a respect for clean, sacred spaces.
- Bullet Trains: Trains in Japan run with magical precision, and bullet trains shave significant time off longer trips. Trains are also known to stop for just one quick minute, so you can’t dawdle. We took a few trains and had someone help with the transfers, which can be dicey. For instance, we had only eight minutes to make one transfer in a large, crowded train station; having someone to quickly guide us to the correct platform and train removed all the stress. I’m happy to explain this further for anyone who may be planning a trip.
- Credit Card vs. Yen: Though credit cards are usually accepted, some markets, food stalls, and cafes are cash only, so you’ll want to have some yen on hand. Helpful Tip: As a foreigner, Japanese stores will not charge you their 10% tax if you show them your passport. Usually, but not always, a photo of your passport will suffice.
- Beauty is Everywhere: It’s usually minimalist and understated, but everywhere you look, you’ll notice how pretty things are. From a single, striking peony in a bowl to the way food is placed on a plate, the Japanese pay attention to detail and treat things with incredible care and precision.
- Sacred Rituals: You will see many of these as you explore the sites in Japan, and they include such things as drinking or washing your hands with sacred water, tossing a coin into a box, clapping and bowing at a Shinto shrine, fanning incense smoke onto yourself at a Buddhist temple, and tying a paper fortune to a designated wire rack or tree branch to leave any bad luck behind.
Food Details: Customs, Etiquette, and Tips
- 7-Elevens Reign Supreme: Japanese convenience stores (or “konbini”) are a national treasure, with 7-Elevens being the crowning jewel. From egg salad sandwiches to onigiri (rice balls) and bento boxes, the quality is so high that locals and tourists routinely buy full meals there. We purchased several lunches and snacks there as well. And no yen needed—your credit card or phone can be easily swiped.
- Fun Dining Option: Omakase (お任せ) is a traditional Japanese dining format, which we encountered often and thoroughly enjoyed. It translates to “I’ll leave it up to you,” and instead of ordering from a menu, the chef takes creative control over the meal. Omakase often, but not always, takes place at an intimate, counter-style bar where the chef serves you directly, one piece at a time—so it lends well to sushi and yakitori meals, but it’s not limited to these. We found these meals to be a wonderful way to try lots of things. And by the end of the meal, we were always satisfied without feeling overloaded.
- Chopstick Etiquette: In Japan, chopsticks should point horizontally to the left, parallel to the edge of the table (this is said to form a line between you and the sacred world), and there is typically a small ceramic or wooden rest to place the tips. When not using, never stick chopsticks vertically (straight up) into a bowl of rice and do not cross them: both are considered bad luck. Also, don’t rest them on top of the main bowl, as this can signal that you are completely finished with your meal, or that you found the food unappetizing. Additionally, pointing with your chopsticks is considered bad manners—we were told it’s the cultural equivalent of aggressively pointing your finger at someone. On a fun note, when eating sushi, it is entirely acceptable—and often preferred—to pick up the pieces with your bare fingers.
- State Any Allergies Before the Meal: We found restaurants generally accommodated allergies quite well and were extremely cautious. When there was a language barrier, we asked our hotel concierge to mention the allergies when making the reservation. Every time we did this, the restaurant acknowledged the allergies before we did.
- Plastic Food Masterpieces: Outside many food stalls and restaurants, you’ll see hyper-realistic plastic replicas (sampuru) of the menu items. They are hand-sculpted works of art that make ordering easy, even if you don’t speak a word of Japanese. Most restaurant menus also have pictures, which greatly facilitate ordering when a language barrier occurs.
- Trust the Seasoning: You may not even get soy sauce with your sushi because the chef usually brushes the fish with soy sauce just before serving. (My soy sauce-loving husband inquired, and it’s always the fish that gets seasoned; they never dunk the rice.)
Jet Lag and Time Differences: An Often-Asked Question
If you are tracking the time difference from the West, everyone warns you about being exhausted during the day. For us, though, daytime energy wasn’t the issue—we actually felt fine while out and about. Instead, what we experienced most was the being awake for a few hours during the middle of the night, especially the first few nights. I always told myself to just rest and not look at the clock, and that was better than getting up and stressing about it.
The time difference from the East Coast is 13 hours, and it’s 16 hours from the West Coast. The funny thing is that the West Coast is physically closer to Japan, yet the time difference is bigger! This discrepancy exists because of where the International Date Line lies.
A funny thing when traveling home: The West Coast crew left Tokyo at 7:00pm and got home at 2:00pm—on the same day.
Our Itinerary
Day 1: Welcome to Tokyo!
After a flight from Newark to Dallas and then across the Pacific (for 16½ hours total flying time), we touched down at Haneda Airport. We arrived in two groups, as some in our group flew direct from LA (their flight time was about 12 hours). We checked into the ANA Intercontinental Hotel, where I would stay 100 times over for the breakfast buffet alone!
For our first dinner, however, the guys decided we should have an authentic ramen bowl, so we walked a short distance to AFURI. It’s a famous ramen chain in Tokyo known for its modern aesthetic, healthy profile, and signature yuzu shio ramen and charcoal-grilled chashu pork. It was easy, inexpensive, and delicious. Happily for the gluten-free members of our family, the restaurant offers konjac (also called konnyaku) noodles, which are made from a Japanese root vegetable and were an excellent alternative to typical wheat-based noodles. The restaurant also accommodates vegan diners. (News alert: I was literally proofing this post when I received a text from LA (the timing was uncanny) that an AFURI is opening across the street from John’s office. So, this is one piece of Japan that can now be enjoyed stateside!)
Day 2: Tokyo — Markets, Temples, and Sushi
Our first full day offered a perfect introduction to traditional Tokyo. We had a guide, which I highly recommend. Not only will they show you everything you should see, but they also provide historical insight, handle all the navigation, and translate when needed. My favorite part of having a guide, however, was that as we spent time together, we got to know them, asked questions, and came away with a much better understanding of daily life in Japan.
- Tsukiji Outer Market: Although Tokyo’s famous wholesale fish market (where the most expensive tuna ever was auctioned sold for $3.2 million USD in January 2026…although, rest assured, the average price for a whole tuna is “only” $20,000 to $30,000) relocated years ago, the Tsukiji Outer Market remains a lively maze of food stalls, knife shops, seafood vendors, and tiny restaurants. It’s sensory overload in the best possible way.
- Sushi-Making Workshop: *Family Favorite!* Learning sushi-making techniques from a master chef and cookbook author was so much fun, and we learned a lot about Japanese culture at the same time. We crafted sushi with the classic fish, including several types of tuna and salmon, as well as a variety or two that were new to us. We even sampled the most tender Kobe beef and discovered that, in Japan, this prized, melt-in-your-mouth meat is often seared and used for sushi. (Note: The class was at a small restaurant called Sushi Dokoro Isaribi, which I highly recommend. The chef did not speak English, but with our guide’s translation, the experience was exceptional.)
- Asakusa & Senso-ji Temple: Asakusa feels like stepping into old Tokyo. The lantern-lined entrance to Senso-ji—Tokyo’s oldest temple—is iconic, but the surrounding side streets and tiny shops were equally fun to explore. There was a religious festival the day we visited, so the streets were especially packed and we got to see people carrying and pushing portable shrine (photo below).
- Kappabashi Street: Nicknamed “Kitchen Town,” this shopping street is essentially culinary heaven. Imagine block after block of Japanese knives, ceramics, chopsticks, cookware, restaurant supplies, and the famously realistic plastic food displays seen outside restaurants throughout Japan. (For those who may be interested, the most popular and iconic fake food art store on Tokyo’s famous Kappabashi Street is Ganso Shokuhin Sample-ya.) You don’t have to be a shopper to be thoroughly entertained by a stroll down this street.
- Hoppy Street and Dinner: We ventured to this famous street for dinner, where the best strategy is simply wandering past the lively stalls until a menu (or food on someone’s plate) catches your eye. Nearly every spot serves up their legendary gyusuji nikomi (savory beef tendon stew), alongside crowd-pleasers like grilled chicken skewers (yakitori), fried noodles (yaki-soba), and retro Hoppy drinks. The language barrier wasn’t an issue; the menus have photos of all the offerings, making ordering as easy as pointing to what looks good. (Helpful hint: When the language barrier was an issue, using our phones to quick translate a sentence worked well.)
Day 3: Tokyo — Shrines, Shibuya, and the Famous Crossing
Tokyo is fascinating because moments of total tranquility can exist just minutes from sensory overload. For some added perspective, Tokyo has a population of approximately 14 million people within the city proper, while Japan’s second-largest city, Yokohama, has a population of roughly 3.8 million people. (New York City may even seem small in comparison to Tokyo, with “only” 8.5 million people!)
- Meiji Shrine: Nestled within a forest in the middle of the city, Meiji Shrine was an example of total tranquility; it felt calm, peaceful, and almost meditative. Walking beneath the towering torii gates and along the gravel paths (and we were lucky enough to see a wedding processional!) was a striking contrast to the energy of nearby neighborhoods.
- Shibuya Crossing & Shibuya Sky: Then came the complete opposite experience: Shibuya. Think Times Square. Watching thousands of people flow across the famous “Scramble Crossing” every few minutes felt equal parts chaotic and organized—a good metaphor for Tokyo itself. Christian knew about (and attempted!) the viral mid-air jump, where people try to be the first to run out and get a photo—in mid-air—before being enveloped by the crowds. Then, we headed 47 stories up to the Shibuya SKY outdoor observation deck for a 360-degree view of the city, which seemed to stretch endlessly in every direction. It also includes a bird’s-eye look straight down at the Scramble Crossing!
- Dinner: *Family Favorite!* We discovered a restaurant called Gonpachi, which is said to be one of the most famous and visually striking izakayas (Japanese pubs) in Tokyo. There are a few locations across the city, but our hotel was within a 20-minute walk to the flagship location in the Nishi-Azabu neighborhood (near Roppongi). Fun fact: Quentin Tarantino was so captivated by the architecture of this restaurant that he had it replicated for the set of his movie Kill Bill: Vol. 1. (There’s a dramatic, wrap-around wooden second-floor mezzanine that looks down on an open kitchen and was where Uma Thurman’s character fought Lucy Liu and the Crazy 88 army.) But what about the food? While Gonpachi is now legendary for its cinematic history, great atmosphere, and high-profile guests, the food totally delivers. From handmade soba noodles and yakitori to tempura and fish, the menu has something for everyone. They also easily accommodate English speakers and offer dedicated vegetarian, vegan, and halal options—they also happily customized dishes like the shrimp tempura, making the coating gluten-free for two in our group and going so far as changing the oil in the fryer, which had been used for breaded items.
- Tokyo at Night: That night, Jack and I left the boys to explore Tokyo’s nightlife scene, which revealed additional facets of the city: tiny cocktail bars, narrow glowing alleyways, immaculate presentation, and the ever-present hospitality we encountered throughout Japan.
Day 4: Tokyo at Leisure
We built a free day into our trip, as we’ve learned from past family vacations that it’s fun to slow down and absorb the culture rather than simply checking the tourist boxes. We took this day to wander along fun shopping streets the kids had heard about, amble through the occasional garden, enjoy a matcha at a local cafe and a wagyu beef sandwich at Shima Steak (this was on Jack’s wish list and it did not disappoint!), and explore Tsutaya Books (which is enormous and offers far more than books…although Christian scored English translations of three mystery books by Japanese authors).
Worth noting is Takeshita Street (Takeshita-dori), which is the epicenter of Japanese kawaii (cute) culture and youth fashion. This pedestrian shopping street is world-famous for its colorful, trend-setting boutiques, eccentric street styles, and a variety of sweet treats. And though we merely gazed through the windows, there are several multi-animal zoo-style cafes, which let you interact with several unique species (think capybaras, mini pigs, Samoyed dogs, and river otters, among others) under one roof.
Dinner: Kinka Sushi Bar Izakaya felt like a perfect blend of a high-end sushi restaurant and a casual Western-style cocktail bar. (The word izakaya, by the way, is frequently used in Japan and translates to “stay-drink-place,” referring to a casual spot with a wide variety of menu offerings.) If raw fish doesn’t appeal to you, you can either take advantage of Kinka’s famous aburi method—where they blowtorch the sushi right in front of you to partially cook it—or simply enjoy one of their many non-sushi menu options.
Day 5: Bullet Train to Kyoto
Taking the Shinkansen (bullet train) was both fast and fun. The trains are fast, quiet, spotless (even the restrooms!), and astonishingly efficient—and even at speeds approaching 200 mph, the ride felt incredibly smooth. The trains are known to always be on time, and we were warned to hustle when getting on and off, because they stop for a mere minute.
And yes, we kept an eye out for Mount Fuji and saw its majestic peak. (Christian thought we should hike it, but I think that would require a separate trip!)
Kyoto immediately felt different from Tokyo—slower, more traditional, and more visibly connected to Japan’s cultural and spiritual history. Kyoto City has a population of approximately 1.43 million (it’s Japan’s 9th most populous city), so while it’s still big, Kyoto is a fraction of the size of Tokyo.
We stayed in Gion, Kyoto’s historic geisha district, where narrow streets, wooden buildings, glowing lanterns, tea houses, and historic Buddhist temples create an atmosphere unlike anywhere else we visited. It’s highly walkable and I would absolutely recommend this location.
Before dinner, we walked a mere block to one of the popular temples, known for the painted dragons on the ceiling. Dinner was another omakase-style meal at Tousuiro, which is located in a restored, historic Kyoto machiya (townhouse) a short walk from the hotel. This dinner highlighted an ingredient the city is famous for: tofu! Despite any preconceptions some may have had, everyone enjoyed the meal, and it was one of the many dinners where the cultural experience was as special as the food.
Day 6: Kyoto — Bamboo Forests, Golden Temples, “Kyoto’s Kitchen,” and Zen Meditation
Kyoto truly felt like stepping into another era, and our first full day there was a packed delight.
- Arashiyama: The bamboo grove in Arashiyama is one of Japan’s most photographed locations, but the surrounding area was equally lovely, with river views, shops, gardens, and quiet streets. Bamboo, by the way, is artfully worked into traditional Japanese design through both architectural accents and functional everyday objects, lending form and character to fences, railings, water spouts (bamboo is hollow), latticework, spoons, chopsticks, and much more.
- Kinkaku-ji (The Golden Pavilion): This is a spectacular Zen temple covered entirely in brilliant gold leaf (we were told 50 kilograms!). It sits on the edge of—and reflects beautifully across—a mirror-like pond and is surrounded by stunning gardens. Japan’s gardens are designed with extraordinary intentionality, and we learned the term “borrowed landscape” (shakkei), which reflects the traditional Japanese gardening technique of incorporating distant, natural scenery—like mountains or forests—into a garden’s design. The goal is to make a space feel infinitely larger by blending the background seamlessly with the foreground.
- Nishiki Market: Known as “Kyoto’s Kitchen,” Nishiki Market is packed with stalls selling yakitori, tempura, ramen, matcha, seafood, sweets, pickles, knives, spices, chopsticks, and countless other foods and giftable items. It was fun to roam and a great opportunity for people to sample and eat whatever they wanted for lunch.
- Zen Meditation & Tea Ceremony: *Family Favorite!* This was another unexpected highlight! A Buddhist monk first led us through a meditation experience, and then he held a traditional tea ceremony for us. He taught us the proper way to prepare and present matcha, and then let us try. We were able to ask the monk questions, and he was incredibly forthcoming, sharing details of the three years he trained to be a monk (it’s hardcore!) and his current life as a monk and what that looks like. When we left, our kids called him “the coolest guy” and raved about this incredible cultural experience. (Note: We did this at Shoden-Eigenin Temple, and our guide said that she has done similar things at many temples, but this was her first time visiting this particular temple with this monk. She said it was her all-time favorite, so I recommend seeking out this spot!)
- Dinner: Tucked away on the third floor near the Kamo River, which runs through the heart of Kyoto, Cafe & Bar Maru is a cozy, relaxed hideaway decorated with traditional Japanese wood carvings. The menu offers creative cocktails and popular dishes like crispy pork katsu (cutlets), crispy karaage (Japanese fried chicken), sushi and sashimi, and even hearty salads. An added bonus: The kitchen is 100% gluten-free and offers dedicated vegan, vegetarian, and Halal-friendly options that make it an easy win for groups with mixed dietary needs.
Day 7: Kyoto — Shrines, Torii Gates, and Sake
This was our one very rainy day, although it did not keep us from doing all that we planned to do. Our trip was in May, and we were told that June, July, and the beginning of August is considered Japan’s rainy season.
- Kiyomizu-dera: A shrine perched high above the city, Kiyomizu-dera offers sweeping views of Kyoto along with beautiful temple architecture and narrow, winding pedestrian streets filled with traditional shops.
- Fushimi Inari Shrine: The seemingly endless tunnels of bright orange torii gates at Fushimi Inari were just as mesmerizing in person as they appeared in photographs. We quickly learned that arriving earlier in the day helps avoid larger crowds. (Later, we marveled at what an art it is to navigate a massive crowd when everyone is wielding an umbrella!)
- Beams: For lunch, we stopped in a cafe within a Beams, which are very popular in Japan. They are like a small mall, but Beams owns all the shops, which are curated to deliver an eclectic mix of streetwear, high fashion, traditional crafts, and home decor from global and in-house labels. This coincided with the heaviest downpours of the day, so it was a perfect refuge. Also worth knowing is that, as a foreigner, Japanese stores will not charge you their 10% tax if you show them your passport. Usually, but not always, a photo of your passport will suffice.
- Sake Brewery Tour & Tasting: *Family Favorite!* Another tour highlight, the Tsukinokatsura sake brewery in Kyoto has been passed down and operated by 15 generations of the Masuda family since its founding in 1675 and is rooted in craftsmanship and history. Following a unique family tradition, whenever a new head takes over the business, they officially change their legal name to match the original founder, Tokubee Masuda. We spent time with June (who will soon be changing his name, as his father just handed over the reins!), who provided an up-close look at the 350-year-old brewing process and then led us through a tasting, which included their famous sparkling Nigori sake (a cloudy sparkling sake) and ultra-premium Koshu (aged sake) that has been matured for decades.
- Dinner: *Family Favorite!* That evening, we had dinner at Gion Katana, a charcoal grill restaurant that was the perfect example of a yakitori omakase: we were brought one skewer at a time along with a few other small bites. Most of the skewers were various chicken preparations, although one was Wagyu beef. All were outstanding, and at the end of our trip, everyone ranked this restaurant at the top of their list for both exceptional food and cultural experience.
Day 8: Kyoto to Yamanaka Onsen
After the energy of Tokyo and Kyoto, the shift to Yamanaka Onsen felt restorative and perfectly timed. This small hot spring town in the Ishikawa Prefecture offered a quieter glimpse into traditional Japanese hospitality.
We took a train from Kyoto and stayed at Hanamurasaki, a ryokan (or traditional inn), where tatami mats, beautifully prepared kaiseki meals (details follow), tea service, and onsen baths created one of the most uniquely Japanese experiences of the entire trip.
Upon arrival, we were treated to a tea service and then spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the small town and walking the local trails, which ran along a meandering river and featured several waterfalls. It was the polar opposite of Tokyo!
A few helpful points:
- Kaiseki meals are multi-course tasting menus that balance taste, texture, and visual artistry. The entire menu flows through a strict succession of small plates, each showcasing a different cooking style (e.g., raw, simmered, grilled, steamed, and fried), and while menus change daily, a standard kaiseki meal generally follows a precise sequence including an amuse-bouche, a seasonal sashimi, a clear broth soup, a grilled meat or fish, a vegetable, a rice dish, and finally a refreshing dessert. This provided yet another great way to sample a lot of new things. For breakfast, guests could choose between a Western and Japaanese-style breakfast, and accommodations were made for any allergies.
- Onsen are traditional Japanese hot spring baths filled with geothermally heated, mineral-rich volcanic water. They are a pillar of Japan’s wellness culture, with thousands of indoor and outdoor bathhouses scattered across the country’s volcanic landscape. Our rooms each had what was essentially a private, natural hot tub (it was divine) and the hotel also had two large public pools, each with sides for men and women.
- Wearing robes and flip-flops to meals was not something we anticipated, but we loved it. This type of hotel commonly provides yakutas, which are traditional Japanese garments that serve as a lightweight, casual version of the kimono. Like a kimono, they are tied with an obi. We were also given a flip-flop-style sandal and socks to wear with them.
Day 9: Kanazawa Day Trip
After a short morning hike and our first of two breakfasts at the inn, a tour guide met us at the inn and we were driven an hour to Kanazawa. This city is famous for preserving its samurai and geisha heritage and was the ideal activity to insert into the quiet stay at the inn.
- Kenroku-en Garden: *Family Favorite!* Regarded as one of the three most beautiful landscape gardens in Japan, Kenroku-en somehow felt both expansive and intimate at the same time. The ponds, bridges, and perfectly manicured trees were awe-inspiring and provided yet another example of the Japanese people’s attention to beauty and detail. Worth noting, Japanese gardens are specifically designed with symbolism, balance, and changing seasons in mind. We were also told that, once a week, all the pebbles in the ponds are scrubbed to keep them pristine!
- Higashi Chaya District: This preserved teahouse district offered another glimpse into old Japan, with narrow streets, wooden facades, and shops selling traditional sweets, matcha, jewelry, and more. Kanazawa produces 99% of Japan’s gold leaf, and is known, among other things, for its real gold-dusted ice cream!
- 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art: A futuristic contrast to the old town, this museum features interactive modern art installations—including the famous “Swimming Pool” exhibit. Before visiting, we walked the grounds of a pretty temple next door, and immediately following, we returned to our inn for a soak in the onsen and another special kaiseki dinner.
Day 10: Return to Tokyo
We once again took advantage of the beautiful trails adjacent to the inn for a pre-breakfast walk, and after our meal returned to Tokyo via train for one final night before heading home. Once there, we checked back into the Intercontinental Hotel (where I was already looking forward to one final breakfast buffet!), and then set out for a couple hours of final souvenir shopping—and the guys had their sites set on Japanese jeans and the flagship Onitsuka Tiger store for their popular sneakers.
Final Dinner: *Family Favorite!* For our last dinner, I discovered Inakaya, one of Tokyo’s famous destinations for robatayaki, a traditional Japanese style of “fireside cooking” that originated centuries ago with northern fishermen: You sit at a massive wooden counter surrounded by fresh seafood, Wagyu beef, and seasonal vegetables and point to the ingredients you’d like. Master chefs grill your selection over smokeless charcoal grills right in front of you. As each item is ready, the chef places it on a long-handled wooden paddle and stretches it across the counter to serve you. (This is said to mimic the way fishermen used to pass food between boats using their oars.) The meal was interactive and theatrical in the best sense of the word, the food was simple but delicious, and the staff occasionally entertained with rhythmic chanting and clapping. It was an unforgettable dining experience for our final night in Japan—and we all agreed the concept would go over incredibly well in our hometowns of both Lancaster and LA. (Local restaurant people, I’m happy to provide further insight!)
Did We Miss Anything?
Christian might say we should have hiked Mt. Fuji, but in all seriousness—and given the time we had—we truly felt like we saw everything we wanted to see.
As the planner of the trip, I should mention that I did feel some pressure going into it. This was a bucket-list destination for the guys, and knowing their expectations were high, I was hoping I had made the right choices. As the trip progressed, I worried there would be thoughts of, “We should have done this activity or gone to that city instead.” Thankfully, about two-thirds of the way in, I started hearing feedback that everyone really felt like we were seeing a great cross-section of the country. Given the time we had, we all thought the trip was well balanced. I was happy… and relieved!
That being said, there were two touristy things we heard about while there that sound like a lot of fun. Future trip planners may enjoy: taking a chopstick-making class (which seems to be a popular favorite) and seeing the famous wild snow monkeys at the Iwatayama Monkey Park in Kyoto. I also think Okinawa—Japan’s tropical, island prefecture—would have been a fascinating destination, but given our time constraints and the necessary flight time to get there, it wasn’t a feasible addition to our itinerary.
(Bonus tip for future travelers: Even if you don’t hike Mt. Fuji, you can often catch a breathtaking glimpse of it from the right side of the bullet train when traveling from Tokyo to Kyoto—just make sure to book a window seat on the mountain side!)
Final Thoughts and Takeaways
As we began the long trip home, we were left in awe of the Japanese people, who were gracious, kind, and so willing to share their culture and knowledge with us. Japan was easily one of the most fascinating, delicious, and beautiful places we’ve ever visited.
Having assistance with the planning (thank you again, Margo!) was enormously helpful. Equally invaluable was that Margo connected us with a local, on-the-ground contact who spoke fluent English. In addition to sending us daily confirmations for tours and transportation, their help was great for basic questions and making restaurant reservations. It occurred to me, however, that if we had faced an unexpected injury or sickness in a faraway place where we didn’t speak the language, having this kind of trusted local connection would have been invaluable.
Also, we bought travel insurance for our last three big trips, and this was the first time we didn’t actually need to use it! When we traveled to Italy, my suitcase decided to take its own vacation to London, and on another trip, we missed a full day in France due to airline issues. Both times, the insurance reimbursements more than covered the total cost of the policy. Interestingly, Margo let us know we could even use it to reimburse several expenses we didn’t know were covered. All that to say, even though we didn’t need the insurance this time, I’d buy it again in a heartbeat. And if we ever had to fully cancel a trip, it would prevent a big financial loss.
Finally, I’m still thinking about the food—specifically a few dishes I’d like to replicate and new ingredients I want to work into my cooking routine at home. I’m definitely looking forward to making more frequent, intentional trips to our local Asian markets.
If you have any questions or comments about our trip, please feel free to ask. And if you have any favorite Japanese dishes, ingredients, or recipes—or suggestions as to where we should go next!—I’d love for you to share those in the comment section below too! 🇯🇵
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